Posts Tagged ‘North Wales Limestone’

Castell y Gwynt seasonal nesting restriction lifted early

Si Panton on pitch two of Appian Way E2/3 5c Photo: Streaky Desroy

The main section of Castell y Gwynt is now open for business. The seasonal nesting restriction has been lifted early. Peregrines sometimes nest on the crag but this year they are not present.

Most of the cliff is now available for climbing – the exception being Opal Moon and Trade Winds. There is a sea bird colony here and consequently this area, on the left side of the cliff, will remain restricted as per usual until the 1st August.

Castell y Gwynt is an impressive cliff with a number of classic trad routes (such as New Dimensions E4 6a and the 4 pitch Appian Way E2/3 5c); it also hosts a number of harder trad routes and some modern sport routes (such as the superb Hidden Sign F7b/+).

It is non tidal and also has the added advantage of not being subject to the summer and bank holiday access restriction imposed on the crags above Marine Drive (i.e. no climbing before 6.00pm).

Keep up to date with nesting restrictions by referring to the BMC Regional Access Database. This valuable resource includes access information for all crags in Wales and England.

A new definitive guide to North Wales Limestone is due later this year, but prior to that you can find information on the crag in North Wales Rock and on the North Wales Limestone wiki.

Corinthian Groove F8b – Robins gets second ascent

Pete Robins making the second ascent of Corinthian Groove F8b Photo: Si Panton

Last night Pete Robins made the second ascent of Corinthian Groove F8b on the Chain Gang Wall on the Marine Drive in Llandudno.

Mark Katz first climbed the line in 2003 and it has survived all this time without a repeat. A few years back Danny Cattell did make it through the lower crux section, but pumped out and fell off the easier upper section of Foolish Ghoulish F7b/+.

The route starts up the boulder problem Mr Whippy, a hard 7A+ (some think 7B); from the finger jug a further desperate sequence leads into Foolish Ghoulish.

“That bottom section is like doing a Font 7C+; I think overall the route is hard F8b. I’ve had quite a few sessions on it, but I had a bad sequence; once I’d sussed out how to do it I got it pretty quickly.”

Explained Pete.

In the same session Pete also climbed a new boulder problem line between Chocolate Wall and Mr Whippy. Screwball rates 7B+. For more details go to

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