Posts Tagged ‘Cyrn Las’

The Tower of Midnight E8 6c

Photo: Al Leary

James ‘Caff’ McHaffie has completed another impressive new route on Cyrn Las in the Llanberis Pass. The Tower of Midnight E8 6c follows on from his recent first ascent of Diffwys Groove E6 6c and finishes with a wild and difficult pitch high on the crag.

The route starts with the first pitch of the classic E1, The Grooves; a scramble is then made over to gain the main pitch of The Prune. The second pitch climbs Diffwys Groove – no mean feat in itself.

“At E6 6c this has quite a committing feel about it actually, very technical and although there is good gear at base the rest is smaller and fiddly to place.”

Said Caff, before adding:

“The top pitch is awesome: taking the thin seam in the wall right of Wrath of Khan which is fingery/ insecure and then quite bold to a juggy break and good cams. You then pull up and undercut rightwards along the quartz band to arrive at three good holds above the lip as your feet run out. Then there’s a big move for a guppy, and a kneebar etc lead up an arete and to the top.”

This pitch wasn’t done onsight, but it was far from being a pre-practiced headpoint as Caff explains:

“I’d not top roped this pitch, just played on two or three move sequences. I’m not sure how hard it is but it felt about F7c+, maybe harder. I’ll have to get someone else on the crux which felt anywhere between Font 6C and 7B+? as it’s quite reachy and insecure.”


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