Dark Religion E9 7A – James Mchaffie completes a desperate project on Dinas Mot

James has been very busy recently with several hard first ascents. Having added a new E9 to the Llanberis Pass only a fews weeks ago it was clear there was more to come.

This time heading to the north facing crag of Dinas Mot with his eyes on a long standing project. Dark Religion tackles the slab to the left of the top pitch of Direct Route (VS)

James Mchaffie demonstrating the technical sequence. - Photo: Tim Neill

James Mchaffie demonstrating the technical sequence. – Photo: Tim Neill

James had a few things to say:

You do the crux of direct route then moves left towards the arete before making tenuous moves up then left to a flake and sidepulls where u can get gear. A couple of ok moves up lead to a long crux sequence. Trending up right past a very slopey two finger drag, you stand up on small nubbins to poor sidepulls and a last smear move up left to a good ledge and easy finish up the arete”.

He added that is gives bold climbing on great rock in a fantastic position.

After struggling to get a decent weather window James lead it on Friday 13th, was he calling its bluff?

James eyeing up the ledge. - Photo: Tim Neill

James eyeing up the ledge. – Photo: Tim Neill

Anyone who’s interested in exploring the brilliance that Dinas Mot has to offer you can find out all the information in the North Wales Rock and Llanberis guide books. Available at www.v12outdoor.com.

James is sponsored by DMM, Rab, Sterling Rope and Boreal.

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