House of Talons E9 6C – Dinas Cromlech receives a scarcely protected new line.

Dinas Cromlech ‘s upper tier receives a very serious new route from James Mchaffie. House of Talons E9 6C tackles the fading groove and wall to the left of the two star line, Rumblefish (E7) through some interesting and precarious climbing.

James on House of Talons -  Photo: Dave Turnbull

James on House of Talons – Photo: Dave Turnbull

James had a few words to share:

It can only be protected by using skyhooks. A hard move up and right where the groove ends leads to scary climbing on side pulls to an undercling at the roof and a pumpy position. A poor wire and more hooks can be placed there before a second crux. Rockover up left leads to a side pull and more precarious moves up right to a good jug. Easier moves lead back left to the crack and then the top”. 

Although technically not as hard as Trauma (E9) on Dinas Mot, James said it is more of an involved lead and possibly the toughest and boldest lead in the Llanberis Pass due to the lack of decent protection.

The route is protected by a total of ten skyhooks some micro cams and a few marginal wires making this line a serious endeavour.

James offered some advice for anyone who may be thinking of giving it a go, he added “ab it first”.

Mchaffie certainly doesn’t look like he’s going to slow down this spree of developing. What will he have for us next?

James on House of Talons -  Photo: Dave Turnbull

James on House of Talons – Photo: Dave Turnbull

 

For more information on Dinas Cromlech and its surrounding crags, have a read of North Wales Rock and the Llanberis guide books, all available at http://www.v12outdoor.com

James is sponsored by DMM, Rab, Sterling Rope and Boreal.

 

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