Jaborandi Direct E3 5C – Gogarth Main Cliff gets a Spring clean

Steve Long, Donald King and Tim Neill have added a two star line to Gogarth’s Main Cliff.

Pitch 1 (34m) starts as for Jaborandi (E2) but carry straight up the fine pocketed groove with good protection. A big cam useful as the crack widens. This leads past the Morphine (E2)stance to belay on the flakes of Pentathol (HVS).

Steve Long tackling pitch 1 - Photo Tim Neill

Steve Long tackling pitch 1 – Photo: Tim Neill

Pitch 2 (48m) Continue as for Jaborandi to the top.

Both pitches are suggested to have a technical grade of 5C and Tim suggests that the second pitch would be best climbed in one pitch due to poor belays.

Please note: There appears to have been some rock fall where the original line tops out with several fresh scars…take care.

Tim added he is hoping to tidy up some new lines in the near future so stay tuned.

Steve long on Pitch 1 of Jaborandi Direct - Photo: Tim Neill

Steve long on pitch 1 of Jaborandi Direct – Photo: Tim Neill

For more information on Gogarth’s Main Cliff turn to page 90 of the Gogarth North guide book. Copies of Gogarth North can be purchased from http://www.v12outdoor.com

 

 

 

Steve Long and Main Cliff on a beautiful spring day - Photo: Tim Neill

Steve Long and Main Cliff on a beautiful Spring day – Photo: Tim Neill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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