The Gravity Wave E8 6c – early doors at Treaddur Bay

Pete Robins working The Gravity Wave E8 6c Photo: James Mchaffie

Pete Robins working The Gravity Wave E8 6c
Photo: James Mchaffie

James Mchaffie has kicked this year’s trad season off with a bang, adding another hard test piece to Treaddur Bay, Anglesey. The Gravity Wave E8 6c is a counter diagonal line to Tim Emmett’s route, Chicama E8/9 6c.

After abseiling the line on Saturday Caff returned with Alex Mason and Pete Robins the following day. He checked out the moves on a rope, then led it that afternoon.

 James had this to say:

“You belay at the base of the ‘Crow Road’ and stick a cam in to protect a poky traverse right and up to gain good holds and a wire. A big move right leads to a good pocket, wire and then the crux, wild moves up and then right to gain the same shakeout as ‘Chicama’. Follow the weakness right for 3 metres before blasting up the overhanging face above with great spaced holds and gear’.

He also added that this route isn’t dependent on the tide, unlike its neighbours.

Mchaffie’s belayer Alex Mason was equally enthusiastic about the route:

“Psyched to have seconded James Mchaffie on his new route ‘The Gravity Wave’. Even more psyched to have not fallen in the sea. It was a close one”.

A few days after Mchaffie’s ascent, Alex returned with Oli Grounsell keen for a go on the sharp end.

“I battled down the line back-aiding it and top-roped out leaving all the kit in place for Oli to have a burn. He decided not to have a go, as his shoulder was sore, so I gave it 20 mins then strapped it on. I was really glad I left the kit in; I was so f***ing pumped after the crux I could’ve been off pretty much any move. Easy locks turned into desperate slaps. There was a particularly exciting moment when I dislodged a cam near the top. I had to back aid it once more and second it again to get the kit out (I managed to get the two stuck wires out to preserve the route for the future). It’s an absolutely outstanding route, good, hard moves and well protected where it matters. A really good route for flash attempts, probably a nails onsight though”

With such gripping, praise-laden accounts its safe to say that this route will attract a lot of attention in the coming year. For those of you who are interested you can find all the information you need on page 251 of the Gogarth South guide, available at www.v12outdoor.com.

James is sponsored by DMM, Rab, Sterling Rope and Boreal.

Alex is sponsored by Tenaya, Lapis, Climb On and Beta Chalk.

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