Ginger Ninja E7 6b, Purple Paradise direct finish E5 6a/b, Day of the Triffids E8 6b – clutch of new routes from Calum Muskett

James Taylor repeating Day of the Triffids E8 6b, Clogwyn y Tarw Photo: Calum Muskett

James Taylor repeating Day of the Triffids E8 6b, Clogwyn y Tarw Photo: Calum Muskett

Calum Muskett has added a trio of new routes to the North Wales mountain crags. Back in October he climbed a variation on Rare Lichen on Clogwyn y Tarw in the Ogwen Valley. Day of the Triffids E8 6b comes in from Trouble with Lichen, as Calum explains: “It’s a nice obvious link into the final arête and is probably soft touch E8. It’s probably the easiest mountain E8 in North Wales and makes for a safe headpoint so could become popular as an easier alternative to Rare Lichen. James Taylor made a quick repeat.”

Ed Booth repeating Ginger Ninja E7 6b, Craig y Clipiau Photo: Calum Muskett

Ed Booth repeating Ginger Ninja E7 6b, Craig y Clipiau Photo: Calum Muskett

This week he made a visit to Craig y Clipiau in the Moelwyns with Ed and Adam Booth and came away with two new routes. Ginger Ninja E7 6b tackles the wall between Straw Dogs and Non Dairy Creamer. “This is probably 2 stars, amazing it hadn’t been climbed before. Low in the grade and fun climbing on nice pockets and positive holds. It was repeated straight after by Ed Booth.”

Calum’s second new route was a new direct finish for Purple Paradise which takes the steep blunt arete to the right of Crimson Cruiser. Surprisingly, this came in at E5 6a/b.

There has also been some re-equipping work in the Dinorwig slate quarries, specifically, Twll Mawr, as Calum explains:

“I re-bolted Wonderful World of Walt Disney like for like and it is now essentially a sport route, albeit with a couple of run outs. Climbing with Emma Twyford I linked P2 direct into P3 by climbing direct up the wall above to the jump. About 10m of new tricky but obvious (1 new bolt) climbing between the two pitches and an amazing way of doing the route. E6 6b/c and the jump is intimidating after 40m of hard E6. We finished up The Dyke which I added a bolt to with Johnny’s permission. Still E6 though. I called this way of doing the route the ‘Disney Pixar variation’.”

Calum also re-bolted Unpaid Bills E5 6b in California and Tim Neill re bolted Con Quista Dors F7b in the Dali’s Hole area.

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