Cavity Wall F7a+ (F7c?)

Looking across from the Never Never Land slab to Cavity Wall F7a+. Photo: Si Panton

This afternoon prolific slatehead, Ian Lloyd-Jones, added another sport route to the Dinorwig slate quarries.

Cavity Wall F7a+ takes the obvious bolted line on the wall on the opposite side of the track to Never Never Land.

“I thought it was going to be much harder, thinking it might be F7b+/F7c but it went really easily on the first redpoint today so it probably only  deserves F7a+ (though being familiar with the moves makes a big difference), it may well feel harder than F7a+ for the onsight…”

Explained Ian, before adding:

“It’s very reachy between the pockets but being short certainly helps for the two rock overs, particularly the hunched up second one. The climbing’s very sustained but never totally desperate, it’s also reasonably powerful at times for a slate slab. The spaced pockets on it are really cool, on any other rock type it would be straightforward climbing, but the lack of footholds and friction make the pocket pulling moves far more difficult.”

A few weeks later Ian returned and added a minor line to the right. Easy for Caterpillars F7a climbs the concave slab on the far right of the wall. Easy to start with a good short technical crux in the middle, followed by some dynamic/long reaches. 4 bolts to a lower-off.

By Ian’s own admission this is not a great route, but the crux is very absorbing.

Stop Press: a few people, including young hotshot Calum Muskett, have tried Cavity Wall and the lack of success has prompted the suggestion that Ian’s initial feeling about the route may be more accurate, i.e. it is probably F7c!

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