Cripple Creek E3 5b, Craig Dorys

Streaky Desroy setting off up the main groove on Cripple Creek E3 5b Photo: Si Panton

With snow on the hills and a distinct chill in the air the smart move for the rock hungry climber is to head out to the coast. The difference in weather conditions can be startling, particularly down on the Lleyn Peninsular. Bouldering in T shirts at Porth Ysgo is the norm at this time of year, and Craig Dorys provides a similar sun trap, albeit with an entirely different climbing experience on offer.

There has been a lot of big number routes done here in recent times; check here and here for more info.

This month’s featured route is not your average run of the mill, but what would you expect from a cliff with the reputation that Dorys carries? Regardless of its serious start Cripple Creek is a fine climb, in fact one of the best in North Wales.

Cripple Creek route card pdf.

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